If you read through my previous blog post you hopefully have a better understanding of why short dryer duct runs are important. They help the dryer to work properly, save money through improved energy efficiency, and reduce the potential for a dryer lint fire. All of these are good things, but what is really involved with cutting a 4.5-inch hole for a new dryer duct. The remainder of this post offers step-by-step instructions for how to go through a relatively easy wall that is all wood construction.
The tools and materials you need
The wall in this example is in a newly constructed cabin and is completely constructed of wood, which reduces the different types of tools you need. Here is what you will need to help your dryer breathe easier.
Tools
· Tape measure
· Pencil
· Screwdriver
· Drill
· 4.5-inch hole saw
· Hole saw arbor
· Long drill bit (minimum of 12-inches)
· Caulk gun for weather sealing
· Tin snips
Supplies
· New dryer vent hood
· Dryer vent metal duct pipe (needed if your wall is extremely thick)
· Duct tape
· Stainless steel screws
· Paintable exterior caulk
Getting started
The first thing you will want to do is look for an adequate spot to install your vent. If you’ll recall from an earlier blog post, the International Residential Code states dryer ducts should not be longer than 35-feet. Each 45° elbow is equivalent to 2.5-feet of regular pipe and each 90° elbow is equivalent to 5-feet of pipe. Be sure to keep elbows in mind when you’re creating your ducting as it doesn’t take long to exceed 35-feet. In an ideal basement installation, you will be able to go straight up from the dryer and through the basement wall just above the concrete foundation.
Start on the inside of the home and get a rough idea of where the dryer vent could go. Sometimes there are only one or two options and you may ultimately need to move things like pipes or electrical wires to find an adequate spot for the hole. In those instances where utilities have to be moved, please consult a licensed electrician or plumber.
Once you have found your spot, take some measurements with your tape measure to get a rough idea of where the hole will be located. You’ll want to use these measurements to go outside and look to see if there are any obstructions that would cause you to find another spot to make the hole. Once you have found a spot that is clear, it’s time to start drilling!
Start small
The first hole you should drill is a small exploratory hole to make sure the location is actually good and free of obstructions. It is much easier to caulk up a small hole than try and patch a 4.5-inch hole that is in the wrong spot.
Start by using your 12-inch long small drill bit to drill through the wall in the center of where you want your 4.5-inch duct to be installed. If you make it through to daylight, leave the bit in the hole sticking out through the wall. It is often easier to spot the bit sticking out than a small hole in a big open wall. If you did not make it completely through the wall, you will need to continue drilling with an 18-inch long bit. Once your hole is through the wall, look both inside and outside to see if you are free of obstructions. If you are, then its time to cut the hole.
Cutting the hole
Attach your 4.5-inch hole saw to the hole saw arbor and then attach the entire assembly to your drill.
Pro tip: Use your drill’s clutch for your safety! Most modern drills have serious amounts of torque, enough to really hurt you if the bit binds up and the drill continues to rotate. It’s not out of the question for a drill to be able to break your wrist or cause significant ligament damage! Set your clutch (the little ring with numbers on it near the chuck) to an appropriate setting where the hole saw will cut, but will allow the drill motor to slip if the bit locks up.
Starting on the inside of the structure, place the drill bit on the arbor in the hole you drilled earlier. Make sure the hole saw is flat against the wall and start cutting the hole. Set your drill's clutch to an appropriate setting and let the saw do it’s work by using light to moderate pressure on the drill. There’s no need to push hard as the bit will cut it’s way through on its own. Continue cutting until you are completely through the wall and have a 4.5-inch hole. Depending on the structure’s construction, you might have to go through several layers of wood and remove them along the way.
Installing the vent
Congratulations! You should now have a 4.5-inch hole all the way through to the inside of your home. Now it’s time to install the duct work. Take the new dryer vent hood and place it into the hole. Do a “dry fitting” to make sure everything looks correct. Depending on how thick your walls are, you may need to extend the hood with additional solid metal pipe and duct tape.
Once your vent is the correct length you will be ready to install the vent hood. Use your favorite paintable exterior caulk to seal up behind the vent hood plate that adjoins the exterior wall. Now, install the 4 stainless steel screws (one in each corner) to ensure the vent will be solidly in place. You can also add extra caulk around the outside of the vent hood edges to make sure it is well sealed from the weather.
Allow the caulked assembly to dry per the caulk’s instructions and then attach the remaining duct work between the dryer and new vent hood. You should be on the way to completely dry clothes the next time you use your machine.
Wrapping up
As with most home improvement jobs, the right tools and knowhow go an extremely long way towards a successful project. This repair/improvement can be intimidating if you’re not comfortable with DIY projects. If that’s the case, please call me at 859-878-2100 and I will be happy to help you accomplish the project.
Thanks,
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