When it comes to household maintenance, one of the calls I get most frequently is the need to re-caulk – anything from a bathroom vanity, bathtub, shower surround, kitchen sink, windows, and more. Make no mistake that while this job appears simple and easy, it can be challenging for DIYers to get professional looking results.
The secret to an exceptional outcome, like most projects, starts with the right prep work.
Hopefully the tips and tricks I’ve shared below will help you with your next caulking project. But, I’m always here to help if you need to call in a pro - 859-878-2100!
Clean out the old junk
The first step to a great final product is to get rid of the old cracked out caulk. Unfortunately, this step is frequently skipped when people DIY the project. I’m not sure, but the homeowner must think that they can just go over the old caulk with a bigger bead and it will look good. I’ve been called in to re-caulk areas that homeowner’s have started on their own and end up cleaning out bumpy new caulk that’s over cracked older material.
Cleaning out the old caulk is actually quite simple and easy to do. Just grab your favorite utility knife and attack the joint at an approximate 45-degree angle. Once you’ve scored the top and bottom of the joint, you can usually grab the old caulk and slowly pull it out of the seam.
Take your time with removing the old caulk. You don’t want to run your knife along the wall or counter surface as you might scratch them. At best you’ll have to repaint the wall, at worst you’ll end up scratching the counter. Neither of these scenarios are great, but if you take your time you’ll be fine and be ready for the next step in no time.
Mask the area for clean, professional lines
Masking is the most important tip I can provide. I learned this technique from my father many years ago and it has served me well ever since. Doing the mask prep work ensures that caulk isn’t going to get everywhere when you go to fill up the seam.
Typically, I use a good quality cellophane tape (commonly known as Scotch tape). For the purposes of this write up I used blue painters’ tape so it would show up better in the photographs. You can use blue tape if you’d prefer, but I have found that using cellophane tape is a better approach. The tape is thinner and won’t leave as much of a ridge to smooth out once the tape is pulled.
Pro tip – get your favorite flashlight or work light and brighten up your work area. Often caulk projects take place in low light areas. Using a light to move along with you while you work will help you see what you’re doing and get better results.
Filler up!
Pro tip – the correct caulk to use depends on what you are trying to seal up. For instance, this same technique works to seal up exterior windows or the inside of a shower surround. While the steps are the same, you need to use the right caulk to make sure the joint is properly sealed to keep out moisture. Should you use polyurethane, silicone, latex, acrylic, siliconized latex, clear, or tinted for your project? If you’re not sure, just ask at your favorite hardware store and they should help point you in the right direction.
The next step in the project is to fill the seam area with caulk. When you go to fill up the open joint try to keep the amount of caulk you use to the least amount possible. After all, what you put into the joint you’re going to need to smooth out with your finger. My general approach is to fill the work area to the point where there is a slight dome rising on the exterior surface of the joint. Doing so will ensure there will be enough caulk left over when you smooth it out.
Pro tip – have a lot of paper towels and a big trash bag on hand! When you start smoothing the caulk with your finger it is going to get all over you. Use generous amounts of paper towels to keep your hands clean and help keep the project area from getting caulky finger prints everywhere. Another helpful tip is to have an assistant nearby to hold the trash bag open if at all possible. My kids are great helpers for this type of project!
Wrapping up
Once you have caulk in the joint it is important to remove the tape as soon as possible so that the caulk doesn’t have time to set up. There will inevitably be areas that need additional smoothing once the tape is pulled so you want to make sure the caulk is still workable after the tape has been removed.
I usually work in small segments to make sure I get to the caulk quickly. For instance, if I’m doing an entire bathroom, I will do all the steps on the vanity top and get it finished before moving along to the tub or shower.
Once the caulk is smoothed, pull the tape away at a 45-degree angle from the project area. This technique helps keep the removed tape out of what you just caulked and reduces the need for additional tooling (manipulation) of the fresh caulk once the mask has been removed.
Pro tip – there isn’t a tape in the world that is thin enough to not leave a caulk ridge line once it is removed. You will need to decide if the ridge is acceptable to you or if you want to try to smooth it down with your finger once again. If you do attempt to smooth it without the tape mask be sure to take your time or all your prep work will be for not and caulk will get everywhere.
The final result
If you take your time and prepare your next caulking project using these steps and tips you will get the professional looking results you want. However, even with these suggestions, the project takes some skill, patience, and finesse. If you decide you want to bring in a professional, please call or text me at 859-878-2100 and I will be happy to mark this project off your to-do list!
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